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The Tudors and the Stuarts: Germany
Thomas Gresham, the merchant prince, was commissioned by EDWARD VI., in 1551, to treat with the Fuggers of Germany, the richest traders of the day, turned into noblemen by Charles V. of Germany, in which, among other "bargains," he was to pay a hundred thousand crowns for "a very fair jewel, four rubies marvellously big, one orient and great diamond, and one great pearl." Notwithstanding her morose character, QUEEN MARY inherited from her father Henry VIII. the Tudor love for display in jewellery. On her marriage to Philip of Spain she was sumptuously adorned. Her robe, with its ample train, was bordered with pearls and diamonds of immense size and value; the large sleeves were turned up with clusters of gold, set with pearls and diamonds. Her chapeau, or coif, was bordered with two rows of large diamonds. The queen also wore on her breast a remarkable diamond of inestimable value, sent to her as a gift from Philip whilst he was still in Spain.
Queen Mary's riding-dress is thus described:--'She wore a small coif; a band of the most costly jewels passed over her head, and clasped under the chin; she had a carcanet of jewels round the throat, connected with a splendid owche and pear-pearl fastened on the chest; also jewelled bracelets. The corsage of the dress, tight and tapering, was girt at the waist with a cordiliere of gems. The skirt of the robe was open from the waist, but closed at pleasure by aglets, or clasps, studded with jewels."
Mary, on her dying bed, sent her jewels to her sister Elizabeth. To these, by King Philip's orders, was added a very precious casket of gems which he had left at St. James's Palace, knowing that Elizabeth particularly admired them. Mary left by will to King Philip, to keep "for a memory of her," a jewel, "being a table diamond which the Emperor's Majesty, his and my most honourable father, sent unto me by Count Egmont at the insurance (betrothal of my said lord and husband); also another table diamond which his Majesty sent unto me by the Marquis de los Naves, and the collar of gold set with nine diamonds, the which his Majesty gave me the Epiphany after our marriage." However remarkable for the rich display of jewels was the court of Henry VIII., that of ELIZABETH, who inherited her royal father's passion for these precious ornaments, was still more extravagant. In her youth she had entertained, or more probably affected, a distaste for jewellery. "The king, her father," says Dr. Aylmer, "left her rich clothes and jewels, and I know it to be true that in seven years after his death, she never, in all that time, looked upon that rich attire and precious jewels but once, and that against her will, and that there never came gold or stone in her head, till her sister forced her to lay off her former soberness, and bear her company in her glittering gayness, and then she so wore that all men might see that her body carried that which her heart misliked."