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The Tudors and the Stuarts: Stones

In the first year of the Restoration a new set of regalia became necessary. "The Master of the Jewell-House," says Sir Edward Walker, Garter Principall King of Armes, "had order to provide two Imperiall Crownes, sett with pretious Stones, the one to be called St. Edward's Crowne, wherewith the King was to be crowned, and the other to be putt on after his Coronation, before his Maties retorne to Westminster Hall. Also, an Orbe of golde with a Crosse, sett with pretious Stones; a Scepter with a Crosse, sett with pretious Stones, called St. Edward's; a Scepter with a Dove, sett with pretious Stones; a long Scepter, or Staffe of gold, with a Crosse vpon the top, and a Pike at the foote of Steele, called St. Edward's Staffe; a Ring with a Ruby. A paire of golde Spurrs; a Chalice and Paten of Gold; an Ampull for the Oyle, and a Spoone; and two ingotts of golde, the one a pound, and the other a Marke, for the King's Two Offerings."

The bill of Vyner, the court goldsmith, amounted to pound31,978 9s. 11d., besides a sum of pound1,200 for some borrowed stones lost during the coronation ceremony. Charles II., shortly after his accession, bought a valuable oriental ruby and a large heart-diamond of great perfection, and decorated his stirrups with three hundred and twenty diamonds. In the third year of his reign, Mary Simpson petitioned his Majesty to award her pound 15,595 out of the Dunkirk money, for jewels supplied to him by her father and uncle; and three years later, another jeweller presented an account for pound 12,179.

In the "Archaeologia" (vol. xv., page 271) is a communication of the Rev. John Brand, secretary to the Society of Antiquaries (read May 17th, 1804), of "A true Inventorie and Appraisement of all the Plate now being in the Lower Jewell-House of the Tower, in the Custodie of Mr. Carew Mildmay, made and taken 13th of August, 1649;" also "A true and perfect Inventorie of all the Plate and Jewells now being in the Upper Jewell-House of the Tower, in the charge of Sir Henry Mildmay, together with an appraisemt of them made and taken the 13th, 14th, and 15th daies of August, 1649," the year in which the unfortunate Charles was martyred. The "Totall of the Lower Jewell-House" was valued at pound 6,496 12s. 4d. The contents of the Upper Jewel-House, including the "King's Crowne" the "Queene's Crowne," a small crown found in an iron chest, the globe, two sceptres, two coronation bracelets, etc., were valued at pound 6,771 os. 4d. The estimated value of the "Regalia now in Westmr Abby in an iron chest where they were formerly kept," is pound 612 17s. 8d.

There is also an "Inventory of several things received from some Gentlemen, in whose custody they were, and now remayning in Somerset House Closet, in Mr. Browne's charge." This includes "a quarter of blue velvett, sett with 412 small diamonds, formerly in captaine Preston's custody, and now in the Closett of Somerset House." This was valued at pound 160. The total value of the "several things" is estimated at pound 341 5s. The "Totall of the whole Duplicate amounts to pound 14,221 15s. 4d."

Alluding to the coronation of James II., Macaulay says, that the King "ordered an estimate to be made of the cost of the state procession from the Tower to Westminster, and found it would amount to about half as much as he proposed to expend in covering his wife with trinkets. He accordingly determined to be profuse where he ought to have been frugal, and niggardly where he might pardonably have been profuse. More than a hundred thousand pounds were laid out in dressing the Queen, and the procession from the Tower was omitted." The circlet crowns and other regal ornaments appear to have been of unparalleled magnificence. The cost of the diamonds, pearls, and other gems with which the imperial diadem was set, amounted to pound 100,658 sterling, according to Evelyn, who saw the bills attested by the goldsmith and jeweller who set them. When completed, however, it was valued at pound 111,900. The rest of the coronation decorations were on the same splendid scale, so that there is no wonder that the historian, describing the Queen on this occasion, should state, "The jewels she had on were reckoned at a million's worth, which made her shine like an angel."

In the days of the Queen's exile and sorrowful widowhood at Chaillot, she sometimes spoke of the glories of her coronation, and descanted with true feminine delight on the magnificence of the regalia that had been prepared for her. "My dress and royal mantle," she said to the nuns of Chaillot, "were covered with precious stones, and it took all the jewels that the goldsmiths of London could procure to decorate my crown."

In the "Inventory of the Goods and Chattels belonging to King James the Second," at the time of his death ("Archaeologia," vol. 18), is appended a note, that "all our own Jewells and Chamber-Plate were brought safe out of England, as appears by a list of them now in our hands" (Queen Mary Beatrix), "whereof to the value of 159,128 livers have been sold, partly in the late King's time, and partly since, as may be seen by the dates of the respective sale of each Jewell in the following list; and that, for the relief of such distressed families and other faithfull Subjects, who having followed the late King in his misfortunes, must inevitably have perished, especially since the Pope's charity has been discontinued, had not this extraordinary means of selling our owne Jewells and Plate been made use of for their support. To which may be added one large Diamond of the Prince of Wales, now the King, sold in Jan., 1698, for 4200 liv., and also a pair of diamond buttons of his, sold in December, 1701, for 3,600 liv." The following is "a List of Jewells sold" (omitting dates): "A large Diamond of the Prince of Wales, 4,200 livres; a Diamond, 7,000; two Pearles, 1,000; a Diamond, 7,000; two Pearles, 8,000; a Bodkin with one Diamond, 16,000; a pair of Diamond pendants, 15,000; seven Diamond attaches, 19,000; two pair of Diamond buttons, 3,600; a Diamond Girdle, Buckle, and twelve Buttons and Loops, 21,000; a pair of Diamond shoe-buckles, 3,000; two Diamond attaches, 48,000; one Coulant of a Diamond Crosse, with the middle stone of the said Crosse, 8,000. Total, 166,928 livres."

In this inventory of effects belonging to King James II. there is an entry, among "severall things belonging to the late King" (Charles II.) "in our owne closet." "One ruby ring, having a cross engraved on it, with which the late King was crowned." A curious interest is attached to this coronation ring. On the first attempt of James to escape from England, in 1688, he was detained by the fishermen of Sheerness. The King kept the diamond bodkin, which he had from the Queen, and the Coronation Ring, which for more security he put into his drawers. The captain, it appeared, was well acquainted with the dispositions of his crew, one of whom cried out, "It is Father Petre--I know him by his lantern jaws;" a second called him an "old, hatchet-faced Jesuit;" and a third, "a cunning old rogue, he would warrant him;" for, some time after he was gone, and probably by his order, several seamen entered the King's cabin, saying they must search him and the gentleman, believing that they had not given up all their money. The King and his companions told them they were at liberty to do so, thinking that their readiness would induce them not to persist; but they were mistaken; the sailors began their search with a roughness and rudeness which proved they were accustomed to their employment. At last, one of them, feeling about the King's knee, got hold of the diamond bodkin, and cried out, with the usual oath, that he had found a prize; but the King boldly declared he was mistaken. He had, indeed, scissors, a toothpick case, and little keys in his pocket, and what was felt was undoubtedly one of these articles. The man still seemed incredulous, and rudely thrust his hand into the King's pocket; but in his haste he lost hold of the diamond bodkin, and finding the things the King mentioned, remained satisfied it was so. By this means the bodkin and the ring were preserved.

This ring is said to have been a favourite one of the unfortunate Mary Queen of Scots, and was sent by her, previous to her death, to James I., through whom it came into the possession of Charles I., and on his execution was transmitted by Bishop Juxon to his son. It came afterwards into the hands of George IV., with other relics belonging to Cardinal York.